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Some Links which you might like to use to find more details of the animals and plants mentioned in Malcolm Lee's survey can be found here:

Flora & Flora of Port Gaverne Main

(1) Flora

(from The Flora and Fauna of Port Gaverne by Malcolm Lee May 1993)

Old Slate Road and Slate Quay

The old slate road and the slate quay were cut around 1860 to enable slate from Delabole quarry to be exported. With the coming of the railway in 1893, the old road was soon abandoned. In the last hundred years or so, the thin soil and neglect has led to a herb rich community, similar to that above Moon's Grave, but more exposed to the wind and salt.

On the slate quay itself taller plants include Tree Mallow, Red Valerian, Curled Dock Rumex crispus, Bristly Ox-Tongue Picris echinoides and Agrimony Agrimonia eupatoria. Scarlet Pimpernel Anagallis arvensis and Creeping Cinquefoil Potentilla reptans carpet the rough scree at the cliff base.

The cliff face has a typical crevice community of Thrift, Rock Sea Spurrey, Navelwort, Buck's horn Plantain and Sea Plantain Plantago maritima and occasional stunted Curled Dock.

The lower part of the old slate road has large numbers of the nationally local fern Sea Spleenwort in the lower crevices between the slate quay and the wooden bridge. Fleabane grows by the bridge. Sheeps Bit is common along the top of the cutting, and Rock Samphire grows almost continuously around the edge. In the grassy areas can be found Common Dog Violet Viola riviniana, Primrose, Common Scurvy Grass Cochlearia officinalis and Betony Betonica officinalis.

The upper part of the slate road has extensive English Stonecrop and Thyme Thymus drucei on the edge of the low cutting. As on the slate quay, the typical crevice community of Thrift, Buck's Horn and Sea Plantain, and Rock Sea Spurrey has formed. Near the road there is a large area of Red Valerian. The principal grass here is Red Fescue, and Hart's Tongue Fern and Black Spleenwort are found in a few places.

The Main

This is best recorded in three parts, (a) the area bounded by the old slate road and the public road, (b) the area out to Castle Rock and overlooking Waddy Gug, and (c) the north eastern section.

(a) The area bounded by the old slate road and the public road.

This area is a south west facing 30° slope consisting primarily of coarse grasses such as Cocksfoot. There is an area of scrub in the southern corner overlooking the slate quay, principally Hawthorn, Bramble, Ivy and Honeysuckle. The western boundary of this scrub merges into Hemp Agrimony with Hart's Tongue, Broad Buckler and Soft Shield Ferns, very similar to that on the NT coastal slope opposite. At the northern side of the scrub, near the path, can be found Yellow Flag Iris pseudacorus, suggesting a small spring nearby.

In 1989 there was a small fire, starting near where the footpaths cross, and fanned eastwards towards the Headlands Hotel. It burnt about a quarter of the grassland, but did no significant damage, and may have been beneficial for some of the flora. In 1991 it was noticeable that Ox-eye Daisies were extremely numerous over this area, turning the cliff land white. This year (1992), Kidney Vetch replaced the Ox-eye Daisies to form a continuous yellow cover.

The narrow strip between the public road and the footpath running parallel with it, is the most herb rich, containing English Stonecrop, Ox-eye Daisy. Sheep’s Bit, Primrose, Dog, Violet, Sea Carrot, Michaelmas Daisy, Red Campion, Bird’s Foot Trefoil, Bluebells, and a few small clumps of Spring Squill Scilla verna.

By and large, the rest of this area is coarse grasses with Kidney Vetch and Sea Carrot. However, there are several hundred anthills on the slope, and the tops of these have a more interesting flora, with Bird’s Foot Trefoil, Black Medick, Lesser Trefoil and Thyme. Even within the coarse grasses can be found a very few clumps of Spring Squill. Perhaps these are the remnants of a much more widespread covering when the Main was grazed. Pictures taken in 1946 show a much greater flora here than can be seen now.

(b) The area out to Castle Rock and overlooking Waddy Gug.

The area to the South East side of Teague’s Pit suffers heavily from visitor pressure, with much of the grassland being replaced by a continual carpet of Buck's Horn Plantain. There are still significant numbers of Spring Squill here (530 flower spikes overlooking Teague’s Pit in 1992), but it was very noticeable that the flower spikes often had only a few flowers on them, compared to seven or eight in other less trodden areas. Perhaps the trampling of the bulb leaves reduces the ability to produce large bulbs for the next year.

Crossing the narrow path, the seat placed on the end of the promontory is a great attraction, leading to clear signs of heavy visitor pressure. In places the Red Fescue is replaced by Buck’s Horn Plantain and Knotgrass Polygonum aviculare. In a few places, all vegetation has been removed, particularly at the landward end of the footpath.

Overlooking Teague’s Pit, the flora is principally Kidney Vetch, Thrift and Rock Samphire, although there are a few Spring Squill (21 flower spikes). There is a fairly typical cliff edge community all round the promontory, but there are two stands of the nationally rare plant Rock Sea Lavender on the south west side, with 122 flower spikes in 1992 (75 in the most north-westerly site, and 47 in the other). There were many more non-flowering rosettes at both sites.

Returning back across the narrow path and walking towards Waddy Gug, the grass to the seaward side of the path is almost exclusively Red Fescue, whilst that to landward is predominantly coarse grass such as Cocksfoot. There is an interesting feature to the north east of the short path that leads off on the left. Here the Red Fescue is almost replaced by a “turf” of Thrift and Sea Plantain, covering many hundreds of square metres.

Within the coarse grass is principally Sea Carrot, Kidney Vetch and Creeping Thistle, but there is a patch of Spring Squill with 218 flowers in 1992, one of which was white.

(c) The North Eastern Section.

Moving up from Waddy Gug to the first seat, the promontory to seaward, between Waddy Gug and Pigeon Gug, is generally coarse grasses, but Tormentil Potentilla erecta, Bird’s Foot Trefoil, and Betony can be found. Spring Squill is still widespread above Pigeon Gug, with over 800 flower spikes in 1992. Near this spot can be found a small clump (5 flowers) of white flowered Squill, and a pale pink one. To landward of the seat is an extensive patch of Saw-wort Serratula tinctoria, intermingled with Sea Carrot.

The 45° coastal slope to seaward of the path bears the full brunt of the westerly salt winds, and is predominantly Red Fescue with patches of the blue grey Sheep's Fescue Festuca ovina. Within the grasses are the most salt tolerant species, Thrift, Rock Samphire, Sea Plantain, Sea Beet and Sea Carrot. Bird’s Foot Trefoil, Kidney Vetch and Perennial Sow-thistle Sonchus arvensis are also found.

To the landward of the path is a mix of grasses, Red and Sheep’s Fescue near the path, being replaced by coarser grasses as you move inland. Within the grasses can be found taller species like Creeping Thistle, Perennial Sow-Thistle and Sea Carrot, giving a very colourful display in summer. Kidney Vetch and Bird’s Foot Trefoil are extremely common within the grass.

Taking the path from the Pigeon Gug seat to the middle of the cliff edge path of Cartway Cove, there is a small stand of Hawthorn scrub about half way on the left. Within the coarse grass on the right can be found large numbers of Tufted Vetch Vicia cracca, Bluebells and some Foxgloves Digitalis purpurea.

Just before reaching the Cartway Cove path, another path leads off on the left to a ledge much used by fishermen. A third of the way along this path, a large patch of Blackthorn scrub is found on the right. Here is a large clump of Bluebells, as well as Wood Sage Teucrium scorodonia.

Alongside the Cartway Cove path, Spring Squill can be found, but they are rather sparse, with only slightly more than 400 flower spikes, not counting those seen on the inaccessible slope below the path at the seaward end (estimated around 500 more flowers). As you walk up from the seaward end, there is a patch of dense Blackthorn scrub on both sides of the path. Further patches of scrub can be found where the path from Pigeon Gug joins. Here are many suckers in the grass, and this patch will undoubtedly grow.

The last part of the path is alongside dense Blackthorn scrub, with many young suckers growing onto the seaward side of the path. This scrub is most extensive, forming an almost continuous thicket back to the top of the Slate Road. Photographs taken in the last 20 years show this scrub has greatly increased.

(2) Fauna

(from unpublished surveys and observations by Malcolm Lee up to August 2001)

Birds

In common with the cliff ledges north and south of Port Gaverne Main, the ledges here are home to locally important colonies of Fulmars Fulmarus glacialus, Jackdaws Corvus monedula, Rock Pipits Anthus petrosus, and Herring Gulls Larus argentus. A colony of some 50 Feral/Rock Dove Columba livia breed at Pigeon Gug. An ancient site this, as Pigeon Gug has been so called for over 150 years. Stonechats Saxicola torquata and the summer visitor Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis regularly breed in the scrub on the Main. Pheasants Phasianus colchicus probably breed in the long grass, as their chicks are regularly seen in summer as they mature.

Insects

(a) Butterflies

The following species on seen the Main in fair numbers each year, and probably breed there; Small Skipper Thymelus sylvestris, Large Skipper Ochlodes venatus, Small White pieris rapae, Large White Pieris brassicae, Green-veined White Pieris napi, Common Blue Polyommatus icarus, Small Copper Lycaena phlaes, Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria, Small Tortoiseshell Aglais urticae, Peacock Inachis io, Meadow Brown Maniola jurtina, Wall Brown Lasiommata megera, Ringlet Aphantopus hyperantus and Gatekeeper Pyronia tithonus. These species are seen in small numbers; Orange Tip Anthocharis cardomines Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus and Comma polygonia c-album, with singles of Brimstone Gonopteryx rhamni seen passing through, but not every year. During daily walks over the Main between 1992 and 2001, just a single fresh Marbled White Melanargia galathea was seen on 23^rd July 1999. This was undoubtedly a male moving through, although the nearest colony of this normally sedentary species is over 5 miles away. Migrant species naturally vary in numbers from year to year, but Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta and Painted Lady Cynthia cardui are seen every year, sometimes in abundance, with Clouded Yellows Colias croceus seen most years in ones or twos.

The most significant butterfly on the Main is the Brown Argus Aricia agestis. In North Cornwall, this is a very local butterfly, with just a handful of sites mainly around the Camel Estuary. Numbers of this double-brooded species are very low here, with single specimens only seen in any year. Although the last was seen on 28^th August 1998, it is likely that it still survives at low density, and management efforts to improve the habitat for this butterfly would be worthwhile.

(b) Moths

There are a great many moths living on Port Gaverne Main, most of which are nocturnal and rarely observed. Of the more noticeable are the hairy larvae of several common species of ‘Eggar’ moths which are frequently seen wandering in the grass; Oak Eggar Lasiocampa quercus, Fox Moth Macrothylacia rubi and The Drinker Euthrix potatoria. The larval webs of another ‘Eggar’, The Lackey Malacosoma neustria, often festoon the Blackthorn scrub. The distinctive black, yellow and white larvae of The Magpie Abraxas grossulariata are commonly noted on the Blackthorn scrub. Two day flying burnet moths are seen each year; the Six-spot Burnet Zygaena filipendulae, and the much less common Five-spot Burnet Zygaena trifolii.

The Main does hold colonies of some uncommon moths, several of which are ‘Notable’ nationally. The very distinctive day flying Scarlet Tiger Callimorpha dominula is nationally a very local species found mainly in the south west, and breeds here in good numbers on the damper sections of the slopes overlooking the beach. The Thrift feeding Black-Banded Polymixis xanthomista is Notable A (recorded nationally in between 16 to 30 10km OS squares) and regularly turns up in September. Another Notable A is the grass feeding Devonshire Wainscot Mythimna putrescens that has been recorded once on 16^th August 1996, and may breed at low levels. The Notable B (recorded nationally in between 31 to 100 10km OS squares) species recorded are; the fern feeding tiny Japanese micro-moth Psychoides filicivora that can often be disturbed from Sea Spleenwort in the cutting near the footbridge, the day flying Thrift Clearwing Bembecia muscaeformis feeds on Thrift and is noted on several occasions each year in the cuttings of the Old Slate Road, and the Pyralid moth Mecyna asinalis feeds on Wild Madder and is recorded most years, with the distinctive larval feeding patterns noted on many plants. Other Notable moths have been recorded at lights in Port Gaverne less that 100 metres from the Main, and most likely breed on the clifflands; the micro-moths Argolamprotes micella, Oegoconia caradjai, and Mompha divisella, and macro-moths Ruddy Carpet Catarhoe rubidata, Hoary Footman Eilema caniola, Crescent Dart Agrotis trux, L-Album Wainscot Mythimna l-album, and Feathered Brindle Aporophyla australis. Records of the latter species form the only modern sightings for North Cornwall. The Pyralid moth Dolicharthria punctalis has been recorded in the grassland at Welshman’s Quarry, only a few hundred metres from here, and may be on the Main. The Small Yellow Underwing Panemeria tenebrata is a nationally declining species that has been recorded on single occasions in the grassland behind the Headlands Hotel, and near Grammer’s Chair, and may also breed on the Main.

(c) Other insects

The Main holds a big colony of one of our largest insects, the Great Green Bush-cricket Tettigonia viridissima. This is predominantly a coastal species and is quite local in North Cornwall. The Speckled Bush-cricket Leptophyes punctatissima is also regularly recorded on bramble in the cutting near the footbridge. A surprising absentee from the local fauna is the Dark Bush-cricket Pholidoptera griseoaptera, which is commonly found in association with the Great Green Bush-cricket in our coastal valleys. Our most common UK grasshoppers, Field Grasshopper Chorthippus brunneus and Meadow Grasshopper Chorthippus parallelus, are both abundant on the Main. The New Zealand phasmid the Unarmed Stick Insect Acanthoxyla inermis is common in Port Gaverne and Port Isaac, and has occasionally been recorded on the Main.

There are many beetles, of which the Devil’s Coach Horse Staphylinus olens, the Leaf Beetles Oedemera nobilis Oedemera lurida and Phaedon tumidulus, Cockchafer Melolontha melolontha, Violet Ground Beetle Carabus violaceus, and 7-spot Ladybird Coccinella 7-punctata are the most noticeable. There are old records for the Glow-worm Lampyris noctiluca in Port Gaverne, and the winged male Glow-worms have been recorded almost annually at my outside lights in recent years. Although the glowing females have not been seen on the Main, they may well survive in low densities. A single Green Tiger Beetle Cicindela campestris on 29^th June 2000 was probably just a casual.

Of the wasps and bees, the pretty Ruby-tailed Wasp Chrysis rudii has been confirmed here by Mike Edwards. This is a local species predominantly found in the South West. Chris Haes has confirmed the presence of the uncommon Cuckoo Bee Psithyrus rupestris, where it preys on the common Bumble Bee Bombus lapidarius, which it mimics. The latter bumble bee can often be the most numerous species recorded feeding on the flowers on the Main.

Reptiles and Amphibians

The Common Lizard Lacerta vivipara and the Slow Worm Anguis fragilis are regularly found on the Main. The Adder Viper berus is not uncommon in Port Gaverne, and probably could be found on the Main, although its habit means it is rarely seen. The Common Frog Rana temporia and Common Toad Bufo bufo are both present.

Mammals

The Weasel Mustela nivalis has been seen on the Main, and the distinctive earth hills made by the Mole Talpa europea are common. Field Voles Microtus agrestis are abundant in the grassy clifftops. Pygmy Shrew Sorex minutus has been recorded, and may well be common.

A surprising omission is the Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus which has never been seen on the Main in the last 10 years of almost daily walking over it. Before the advent of myxomatosis in the 1950s, this mammal was excessively abundant in North Cornwall, forming a most significant local export on the North Cornwall Railway, with around a million animals sent up country each year to the meat markets of London and Birmingham. Old pictures of the Main show much finer grasses and very little scrub. In the absence of regular grazing by domestic animals (of which there is little evidence in the 20^th century) it is likely that rabbits were the most important factor in maintaining fine cliff land swards. Whether re-introduction of rabbits would bring back the short turf, or be desirable, requires serious consideration.

Malcolm Lee

21^st September 2001